Every fall, in my American Literature class, I read The
Great Gatsby with my students. Not very
original, I know, but classics are classics for a reason. And every year, when
Nick realizes that Gatsby believes, without doubt, that he and Daisy will
simply rewind the clock together, erasing what's happened in the years since
their separation, and erasing the people they've become in order to go back to
the people they once were, I join Nick in his incredulity and marvel over the
absurdity of Gatsby's point of view. "You can't repeat the past,"
Nick tells Gatsby every fall, and every fall Gatsby replies, "Of course
you can!"
Despite my annual criticisms of Jay Gatsby, it turns out I've been guilty of similar thinking.
Last November I turned 40, and my friend
Char turned 60. For years we imagined some sort of epic adventure to
commemorate this shared milestone. For a while, that epic adventure was
supposed to be a trek in Nepal. In fact, when I turned 30 I was also supposed
to go to Nepal—it was the planned destination that semester for my traveling
school, but the summer before our departure, Nepal's crown prince went berzerk
and killed 9 members of his royal family, before shooting himself. He too died
days later and Nepal was in turmoil, so we planned to go to Thailand instead.
It was September of 2011 and Thailand didn't happen either, but now I'm getting
off track.
As the big 40/60 birthday year approached, Char and I
started discussing Nepal again. And Sam was on board too—he bought me a
guidebook for my 39th birthday and promised to help me get to the
Himalayas the following year. By the time 40 was approaching, Quinn had just
turned one, and she was crawling, and cute, and starting to really grow on me.
And the more I thought about being away for three or more weeks, the time it
would take us to really do the trip the right way, the more petrified I became.
I knew I wasn't ready to leave.
The problem was that my traveling partner was in a different
position: For Char, getting to Nepal sooner rather than later was going to be
important. I was so afraid of backing out on her...I didn't want to let her
down. But, I got lucky: she was asked to join a big geology trip to Egypt last
winter and, by the time she got back, she felt like she had used up her
"out of the comfort zone" big adventure for the year. Either that or
she sensed my anxiety and gave me an easy out. Either way, I could exhale: I
was off the hook.
Instead of the Himalayas, we started discussing other trip
options a bit closer to home. Pretty quickly we arrived at the idea of doing a
paddling trip; for a number of years, Char and I would go on a paddling trip
together every summer—so this idea brought us back to our roots, and we liked
that. And once we knew we wanted to paddle, we pretty quickly focused our
thoughts on the Boundary Waters—one of the world's quiet water Meccas.
Last March we started planning and what we pulled together
was a week-long backcountry loop of lakes and portages in Canada's Quetico
Provincial Park, the Canadian side of the Boundary Waters. We agreed to drive
out, leaving from her Adirondack camp the day after Sam's annual Lake Placid
lacrosse tournament ended. And from the moment our plan for the trip came to
be, I looked forward to it every day.
I looked forward to the quiet water, and the quiet. I looked
forward to the new scenery, and the adventure of it all. I looked forward to
reuniting with my old gear—my beloved one-person tent, my favorite-ever
sleeping bag which has been a comforting friend on countless great adventures
since its first in 1993—a week on the Long Trail with Kim. I looked forward to
seeing my trusty and easy to light, no muss no fuss camp stove, and my favorite
pewter spoon found in the basement kitchen at Adventure Quest before my first
international trip—my eating utensil of choice on every single camping trip
since. I even looked forward to the two-day drive out, and the two-day drive
back, because a good roadtrip, with a good friend, is good for the soul.

On every bad day, between March and the beginning of August,
I thought ahead to my trip and took solace in knowing that it would eventually
arrive. Ten days on my own, I felt sure, was going to be like going back in
time. I was going to be free—of people and schedules and expectations—and navigating
through a new wilderness was going to be a great adventure. Schlepping my two
heavy packs, my paddle and our canoe over 18 rough portages (some a third to a
half-mile long) was going to be physically demanding. We would be camping among
bears, and moose, and wolves. And we didn't know fully what to expect—it was
perfect. I couldn't wait to get going—to get moving back into my old skin—the
free and independent and adventurous former me who, for the past seven years
has been too busy building a house and building a marriage and growing a baby
to get out and do anything as awesome as the things I used to do all the time.
I've been missing that girl and I couldn't wait to find her again, somewhere
out in western Ontario in the middle of the big woods.
My mind is like that—very black and white. The trip would be
good. My old self was better than my new self, and I just needed a trip to bring her back. All things clear and absolute. Rather Gatsby-like
really.
As our departure date got closer and closer, the panic
started to settle in. Sam was off playing lacrosse and Quinn and I were home
together. I was scrambling to get ready—to pack, to shop for my half of the
camp food, to leave things at school in order so I could return from the trip
and go right to the opening day of school the next day, to pay the bills, clean
the house, buy diapers and supplies to keep Sam stocked for the ten days that I
would be away…And in the midst of all that work, despite my attempts not to think
about it, I started to wonder how I was going to be away from Quinn for that
many days.
The trip was a nice idea, but it was proving to be a tough
reality. I had worried about whether I was in shape enough to handle the
physical challenges, but it had never crossed my mind to wonder whether I would
be equipped to handle the emotional challenges. It's been so long since my last
big adventure that I had forgotten just how much I miss Sam when I'm away. And
Quinn didn't even exist as an idea last time I did something like this. I
didn't, at the time, know what it would feel like to have a tiny little person put her fleshy little palm to my cheek and say, "Mama." Or have that same little person, who can
barely speak, put her finger to my chest and say, "You." And then
point to herself and say, "Me." I didn't know what it would be like
to hear her say, "happy" for the first time, or to say "thank you" for the
first time, after 23 months. But these were the words she started saying in the
days just before I left: You and Me. Happy. Thank you.
For the word-lover in me, the irony was too much.
The night before I left, when I couldn't stand to hear her
cry in her portable crib at Char's camp, I went upstairs to get her and I sat
on the floor with her, and she asked me for "Baby Rocky?" which is
what she says when she wants me to cradle her in my arms and sing Rock-a-bye
Baby. And I held her as she asked me to and I cried my eyes out. How could I be so
selfish as to leave her for 10 days? What if she calls for me and I'm not
there, and I'm not even close to coming back? And what happens if,
heaven-forbid, something happens to Quinn's mom when she's out on her big
adventure? What if I don't come back? And if I do, how am I ever going to
be able to let her out of my sight when she's older to have the same kinds of
adventures that have been so important to me?
As I sat there holding her and worrying about all this
and sobbing, Quinn did this amazing thing: she poked me gently on the nose and
started to laugh this sort of fake little laugh…like she was trying to cheer me
up but didn't quite know how, and she did it over and over again until finally
I was laughing instead of crying. And then I felt even worse about leaving…I knew I'd
be lost without her.
The next morning was miserable. We were packed and ready to
go by 7:30, and Sam and Quinn walked us to the driveway to say goodbye. I
kissed them and got in the car and the last thing I heard was Quinn's little
voice: "Bye-bye Mama." I don't remember when I stopped crying, but I
eventually did. And sometime after that, Char and I started to catch up, and as
we talked the miles and the hours started to pass. And that night I called Sam and he
said they were okay. And the next morning, we were up early and driving again.
And I knew Char didn't want to spend her trip talking about what was waiting
back home, so I learned to keep my thoughts mostly to myself, but I can tell
you I thought about Quinn about 98% of the time, despite how good it eventually
felt to be paddling, and despite how beautiful everything was.




After dinner, on our first night out, we endured a
spectacular thunderstorm with an incredible amount of close lightning. The site
I had picked for my tent was ideal for minimizing mosquitos—it was up high,
next to a bald rock, away from the trees. It was also ideal for a lightning
strike. I spent a few hours lying in my tent listening to the torrential rain
and thunder, wishing I was in a different place—not because I was worried about
my safety, but because I was worried about putting Quinn's mom in danger.
Eventually my anxiety about being struck motivated me to move and I ventured
out into the deluge, resigned to the fact that from that point forward I'd be
wet for the rest of the night. I unstaked my tent, dragged it down the rocky
hill in the pitch black night and set it up next to Char's in a more protected spot down low.
Eventually, when I had redone everything and climbed back into my sleeping bag,
the storm started to move off, the rain slowed to a drizzle and the world got
quiet enough that we were able to hear a timber wolf howling in the distance.
It was brief and eerie and magical, and after I heard it I was finally able to
fall asleep.
By the time we rounded the southwestern end of our loop days later, and were headed back toward our northeastern end point, I started to really enjoy what
we were doing. My body felt firm in places it hasn't in years, and my head felt
more clear as well. Quinn never left my thoughts, but somehow it was easier
psychologically once we were at least headed toward home—even though we were
still days away.
Toward the end of the trip our route was right along the
border between the US and Canada—running up the middle of our last chain of
lakes. One morning we got an early start and the fog was still lifting over
glassy water. We paddled in silence a couple of the last days—Char and I out of
sync in our thoughts, despite moving as one on the water. The lakes were narrow
that morning and the wooded shorelines were close together—an easy swim if you
chose to make it.

As I paddled I thought of another story: Tim O'Brien's
"On the Rainy River" which was named after this very part of the
world (we were in the Rainy River District). His story was the story of a young
man with a Vietnam draft card in his pocket, sitting in the bow of a boat with
the US just behind him and Canada just in front. The old man fishing guide steers the boat wordlessly toward the Canadian shore, and then puts his fishing
line in the water and waits. The young man is paralyzed—torn between his sense
of family and responsibility, and his desire for freedom and life. In his mind,
he jumps in the water, swims to the opposite shore and starts running; he never
looks back. But in reality, he doesn't move, and eventually the old man brings
him back.
The whole landscape up there is, at times, motionless. It's easy to
get turned around, and when you do, you're not sure what you're looking
at.
Gliding through those boundary waters, I felt the same polar pulls within
myself, but where one idea ended and another began wasn't always clear. I went
up there thinking family would be put on hold for self, responsibility paused
for freedom, home and away both distinct. But I realized that is two-dimensional thinking
in a three-dimensional life. Family for me is no longer different from self.
Responsibility and freedom no longer mutually exclusive. Home stayed with me no
matter how far I went.
On our last full day we got to camp before noon and had a
long afternoon and evening to spend. I was glad for the time to reflect before
returning to the car, and the world, and before heading home. I have a romantic view
of what backcountry trips are all about—I always think they are going to be so
much fun, and then always they are more difficult than I remember. And of
course that's what makes them so important: they challenge our sense of who we
are and what we're capable of. Schlepping my gear through buggy woods, and
swampy trails, paddling from lake to lake, I realized I wasn't journeying back
to a former self—I was getting more acquainted with a new one. I used to feel
proud of my adventures, but I've never felt more proud of anything than being
Quinn's mom. My last night in the tent, instead of thinking about what I had gained,
I was glad to realize what I had lost: the idea that there is a difference
between the old and the new.

The day we left the Quetico and got back to the car to head
home, we stopped at a little store on our way down the Gunflint Trail to ask about
driving routes. I saw a postcard with the image of a beautiful wolf and picked
it up. The caption on the back explained "The gray wolf mates for life...all the members of the pack help to care for the young…A lone wolf will give a
beautiful and haunting howl when separated from its pack."
We never saw any black bears, and never saw a moose. But I
heard the wolf howl—I'm quite sure of that. That and the fact that you can't
repeat the past…and right now, that's just fine; I can't imagine going back.